IT is odd how the Islamic Fashion Festival (IFF) has the power to incite some of the most intense reactions from people. Admittedly, I too, have not been spared from the nose-scrunching, eyebrow-raising cynicism that hijacks the minds of most fashionistas when they hear these three words uttered for the first time.
What does fashion have to do with religion? And why am I, a non-Muslim who can’t differentiate a hijab from a kaftan, assigned for the job? (source)
According to the founder and chairman Datuk Raja Rezza Shah, however, staging the IFF in a non-Muslim country in front of a predominantly non-Muslim crowd, was not about highlighting the superiority of Islam or converting anyone, it’s “to create a better understanding of the religion through fashion.”
Designers, especially Tom Abang Saufi, expressed their love for deep, rich hues. “The IFF longs to correct the misconception people have about Islam and terrorism since 9/11,” he said during a press conference in Singapore. “People are tired of hearing lectures about how the religion is nothing like what they think it is. We want them to see and experience the vibrancy of the religion for themselves.”
Which brings us to their very first show in Singapore, which was held on June 2. Our gregarious neighbour isn’t the only non-religious city to welcome the IFF. Five years after its debut in Kuala Lumpur, the IFF has made inroads to New York City and Monte Carlo, where skimpy styles and barely-there clothes are the order of the day. But even more surprising was the post-show feedback.
“Prince Albert of Monaco was so impressed that he wants us to return to Monte Carlo, while Robert De Niro said he always thought that Muslims have to be clad in a black ninja outfit until he saw the show in New York,” said Raja Rezza.
Incidentally, some of the biggest critics of the IFF have been Muslims themselves. Raja Rezza, who was still reeling from the aftermath of last year’s show, insisted that he wasn’t losing any sleep over the onslaught of disapproval on the Internet.
Big on bling: Bejewelled dress from Itang Yunasz. “Some people freaked out because they thought the clothes were too sexy,” he said. “However, we have different designers from different parts of the world who have interpreted Islamic fashion according to their culture. Who are we to say that these interpretations are wrong?”
Designed to dazzle
One of the IFF’s most prolific yet oft-criticised designers is Hindi Mahdi. Born in Palestine and based in Paris, Hindi is the Middle East’s version of John Galliano, and not just because he has a way of making the conventional Islamic garb accessible, even appealing, to the masses.
“I’ve put a modern spin on the clothes,” remarked Hindi, who presented his designs in the Lion City for the very first time. (For more on Hindi, see accompanying story.)
But then again, the public often fail to understand that the fashion industry has always thrived on pushing the envelope. At the same time, ultra-conservative fashion has found its way to pages of iconic magazines such as Vogue and across the world’s runways in recent years.
However, it wasn’t until a few months ago – when pictures of Nigella Lawson in a black burkini (a head-to-toe swimsuit) surfaced online – that the world was sent into a tailspin.
Mantra shows that Islamic fashion can knock others off their feet ... in a good way! In his column for Fox News, Alex Alvarez said, “A website posed a doozy of a question to its readers today: ‘Are burqa-inspired fashions glorifying female oppression or encouraging women to dress more conservatively?’ Are those the only two choices we get?”
Lawson’s choice of outfit was motivated by a desire to shield her creamy complexion from the Australian sun, rather than a sudden conversion to Islam or her conservative dress sense. It was reported that she had purchased the burkini from an Islamic swimwear company, Modestly Active, and that the line chosen by her offers a sun protection factor of 50+. Apparently, she wasn’t the first non-Muslim celebrity to purchase an all-in-one outfit from the company, nor would she be the last.
In an interview with the UK Telegraph, Modestly Active’s marketing director Ismail Sacranie said that they hadn’t expected their clothes to appeal to non-Muslims. Nonetheless, these women now make up 15% of their client base.
“The Islamic fashion industry is worth US$96bil (RM291bil) a year globally and, contrary to popular belief, it’s not just Muslim women who contribute to this figure,” said Raja Rezza, who sees Islamic fashion as a “lifestyle” rather than a “religious” choice.
Melinda Looi uses European silk fabric entwined with generous splashes of jewels. As such, many of those on the guest list of IFF’s gala event were non-Muslims. They included the likes of plastic surgeons, ambassadors, ministers, socialites and even Douglas Benjamin, CEO of retail giant FJ Benjamin.
“Frankly, I don’t have any expectations,” said Pamela Ramos, the wife to former ambassador of Mexico, over dinner. “It’s my first time at an Islamic fashion show and I’m here because my husband was invited. I’ve never been madly impressed with Muslim fashion before and I’m curious to see how it would pan out.”
The mood was decidedly more optimistic backstage. Malaysian designer Nuraini Ariffin – who designs for her label Aktif Bestari – said most of her customers were, in fact, non-Muslims.
“They buy our clothes for all sorts of reasons,” said Nuraini, after the curtain went up. “Some of them want to protect their skin from the sun, while others feel self-conscious about their bodies.”
The spandex-and-lycra burkinis that came cruising down the runway during her IFF Singapore show were not just black, but also violet, blue and even shocking pink. The styles were equally varied, from inbuilt visor caps to tunic-like cuts.
Going undercover
“I don’t see why non-Muslims shouldn’t wear such designs,” said Malaysian designer Melinda Looi. “I myself have fallen in love with the abaya, a robe-like dress, after visiting the Middle East.”
This had prompted Looi to start designing her own abayas under the Melinda Looi Islamic collection.
“The Chinese love them,” she said. “One of my Chinese clients has asked me to custom design different abayas for her. She said she likes to wear abayas to formal events, not just because people complimented her for it, but also because she could finally eat!”
There were 13 designers in all, but the night ultimately belonged to Looi, Malaysian designer Datuk Tom Abang Saufi, and the duo from Singaporean label Mantra, who sent more than several dozen dresses in a riot of colours down the runway.
The audience held their breaths as fluffs of marabou, ripples of velvet and satin, flashes of glitter and clouds of tulle made their grand entrance, together with laced veils, bell-shaped sleeves, angular shoulders, swirling turbans and poufy skirts.
Taking religious beliefs, clothing or accoutrement out of context, some of these outfits were downright dazzling. It was a show fit for Scheherazade, with all the trappings of elegance and style, and none of the sexual overtones that dominate today’s fashion shows.
There were also a few instances when my heart stopped beating at the sight of all that sumptuous fabric, all the sparkling jewels and all that jazz.
But it wasn’t all just frou frou-ness and frills. The irreverent Hindi once again shocked and charmed many with his military-print hijabs and rebellious ebony pantsuit. Perhaps it was his way of giving the finger to all fashion prudes and naysayers, but boy, he sure did it with a whole lot of panache.
“I don’t believe in fashion trends,” Hindi had mentioned earlier. “As the French say, la mode ne se demode pas, which means fashion doesn’t vanish, it comes back after a while. All kinds of creation can be trendy if you wear it the right way.”
As a round of applause rang through the ballroom, my neighbour expressed her trepidation. Sure, these clothes may look amazing on tall, willowy frames, but what about regular women?
Looi, whose clients are mainly petite females, claimed that kaftans and biased cuts look best on such bodies.
Meanwhile, Hindi said that curvy women should go for shorter blouses and longer skirts.
Singaporean businesswoman Eva Lee, however, brushed aside all talk of style technicalities. The show had left her more excited than anxious, and she was not afraid to admit it.
“That was certainly eye-opening,” she said, grinning. “I’m so amazed at all the beautiful clothes that I just saw. I used to think that Islamic fashion was all about baju kurung and kebayas. I guess I was wrong.”
Lee said that she would purchase such clothes in a heartbeat. “These days, it’s difficult to find a gown that’s not revealing. These clothes, on the other hand, are perfect for someone my age,” she quipped.
Ramos was also smitten, and believes that some of these labels might do very well in Singapore.
“It was all quite lovely,” she said. “The only problem is that it’s very hot in Singapore, and I’ll probably have a panic attack in long sleeves. But I’d definitely wear some of these clothes abroad.”
With all the positive comments, one could only wonder why Raja Rezza didn’t think of taking the IFF to Singapore earlier.
“We only go when we’re invited,” he answered. “Religion can be a very sensitive issue, and the last thing we want to do is ambush others.”
Source : http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2011/6/23/lifearts/8901157&sec=lifearts - June 23, 2011
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